June 25, 2015
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Anan City 阿南市 → Awa-Fukui 阿波福井→ Hiwasa City 日和佐市
Temples: 23 Yakuō-ji (薬王寺)
Weather: Sunny + Cloudy
Travel Method: Train + Walking
Distance: (+14) 17.7 km
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A clatter of voices and footsteps outside my door wakes me up. After it dies down, I roll over and push myself up groggily. I pack my bag and put the futon back onto a stack in the corner. There are only the items I’m mailing left out on the floor, and the nokyocho that I’m leaving for the Mizutanis.
...
June 27, 2015
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Shishikui 宍喰 → Kiragawa 吉良川
Temples: 24 Hotsumisaki-ji (最御崎寺), 25 Shinshō-ji (津照寺), 26 Kongōchō-ji (金剛頂寺)
Weather: Cloudy + Rain
Travel Method: Bus + Walking
Distance: (+40) 27 km
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Morning. Fold futon. Open curtains. Sunshine. It rained. Pack. Eat.
I move around as quietly as I can. Aurelie is still sleeping, and I enjoy extending morning quiet before the day begins.
At some point, something clatters and I hear Aurelie wake.
...
June 29, 2015
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Kōnomine-ji 神峰寺 → Ioki 伊尾木 → Aki 安芸 → Akano 赤野 → Yasu 夜須 → Kagami 香我美
Temples: None
Weather: Sunny
Travel Method: Walking
Distance: 35.3 km
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I woke up in the middle of the night only once, which is an accomplishment. I wake again in the dark before 5:00 because I had originally wanted to climb to the peak and see sunrise. Finally, my alarm goes off again at 6:00, and I’m behind schedule.
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July 3, 2015
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Kochi City (高知市) → Susaki Henro Hut (須崎遍路小屋)
Temples: 36 Shōryū-ji (青竜寺)
Weather: Cloudy with Sun
Travel Method: Walking + Boat
Distance: 21 km
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Today is a series of unfortunate events, but it started off beautifully.
I get up early to enjoy breakfast before leaving my Airbnb house. This is my chance to eat a full spread unlike the usual onigiri and snacks that I have on the go.
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July 4, 2015
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Susaki Henro Hut 須崎遍路小屋 → Agiri Kubokawa Michi-no-Eki アギリ窪川道の駅
Temples: None
Weather: Rain
Travel Method: Walking + Train
Distance: 18.7 (+ 19) km
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I wake up to a morning drizzle and check my foot. It’s still the size of a golfball, but curiously not an angry purple.
I’m lucky. A millimetre off and I would probably be back in Kochi City, in the hospital. I stop myself from looping yesterday’s fall in my head, from thinking about that one fateful moment, that one avoidable step.
...
July 5, 2015
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Agiri Kubokawa Michi-no-Eki アギリ窪川道の駅 –> Kubokawa 窪川
Temples: 37 (Iwamoto-ji 岩本寺)
Weather: Rain
Travel Method: Walking
Distance: 18.7 km
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My alarm goes off and I reluctantly unzip my tent flap, poke my head out, and sit up on the bench.
Cleaning up, packing, having breakfast, chugging half of the two-litre bottle to offload weight fill up my first hour. Whether I rush or take my time, I’ve discovered don’t stray far from this hour mark.
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July 7, 2015
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Kaina Station → Michi-no-Eki Bios Oogata (道の駅ビオス おおがた) Temples: None
Weather: Cloudy
Travel Method: Walking
Distance: 24.2 km
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The day starts early, too unjustly early for a departure. This is a good life, a good home, a good river outside, with good hills.
We have breakfast and I pack the last items into my backpack as my host starts the car. Where did the morning go?
My host and I have our last good chat on the way to Kubokawa station, where she’ll drop me off on the way to work.
...
July 9, 2015
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Shimonokae 下ノ加江 → Hirata Station (平田)
Temples: 38 (Kongōfuku-ji 金剛福寺)
Weather: Cloudy + Sunny
Travel Method: Walking + Bus + Train
Distance: 24.7 (+51.7) km
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I set my alarm for 5am and it’s barely twilight by the time I get out from the covers. Instantly, I regret laying out my dryish clothes last night; the humidity has tampered with them. Never mind. I pack and eat breakfast, finishing the rest of the cold barley tea from last night.
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July 10, 2015
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Hirata Station (平田) → Michi-no-Eki Mima 道の駅みま
Temples: 39 (Enkō-ji 延光寺), 40 (Kanjizai-ji 観自在寺)
Weather: Sunny with Clouds
Travel Method: Walking + Train + Bus + Train
Distance: 12 (+78.1) km
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Tired of trying to sleep, I get up at 4:30am.
I spent the past four hours lying on the hard plastic chairs – the ones that curve up into ridges – on the platform waiting room at Hirata station.
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July 19, 2015
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Imabari City (今治市) → Ishizuchiyama (石鎚山) → Iyo-Doi (伊予土居)
Temples: None
Weather: Sunny with Showers
Travel Method: Walking
Distance: 29 km
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I really wish I had enough sleep. But, I also wouldn’t trade the two extra hours we took to make the apple crumble. For a henro, a 6:30am breakfast is so late. It’s Akiko’s 365-Day Breakfast Special, in her own words. Special every day, methinks. Just as I’m finishing up, Tsuneto comes with a severe face.
...