June 17, 2015
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Kawata -> Hourinji –> Kawata
Temples: 9 (Hourin-ji 法輪寺), 10 (Kirihata-ji 切幡寺)
Weather: Cloudy
Method: Cycling
Distance: 31.8km
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My first two temples in the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage were chosen, as it were, by fate. After a long morning assisting my WWOOF host run a tofu-making class for mothers and their toddlers, I had the afternoon off. Though the farm is far from the Shikoku Pilgrimage’s starting point near Tokushima City, I realise that it is close enough to one of the temples deeper in the Awa Valley.
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June 19, 2015
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Bando (板東町) –> Itano (板野町)
Temples: 1 (Ryozen-ji 霊山寺), 2 (Gokuraku-ji 極楽寺), 3 (Konsen-ji 金泉寺)
Weather: Light rain + Cloudy
Travel method: Walking
Distance: 8km
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The day starts briskly with a quick breakfast and a bike ride in the rain to catch the 8:16 train. It doesn’t seem a problem when I decide to go, but my morning commute from Kawata station in Awa City would take three hours to get to Bando, the stop closest to the first temple of the pilgrimage.
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June 23, 2015
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Tokushima City 徳島市 → Anan City 阿南市
Temples: 18 Onzan-ji (恩山寺), 19 Tatsue-ji (立江寺)
Weather: Sunny + Cloudy
Travel Method: Train + Walking + Train
Distance: (+12) 10.2 (+10) km
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It’s my first real day! I’m up before my alarm at dawn and get up to prepare breakfast with Shou-san. It’s my last full meal at Ono Farm before catching a ride with my WWOOF host out to Tokushima City.
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June 24, 2015
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Anan City –> Katsuura –> Aratano –> Anan City
Temples: 20（Kakurin-ji 鶴林寺), 21（Tairyuu-ji 太龍寺), 22 (Byoudou-ji 平等寺)
Weather: Sunny + Cloudy
Travel Method: Car + Walking + Car
Distance: (+22) 17 km
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The morning glow gradually fills my room, but I can’t shake the sleepy haze. Slowly, I feel the tightness of my thighs, the tense shoulder muscles. Suddenly, I feel my whole body as one heavy mass. Through the closed door, Ayumi’s gentle coaxing voice does a tango with Kotaro’s sputtered wails.
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June 25, 2015
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Anan City 阿南市 → Awa-Fukui 阿波福井→ Hiwasa City 日和佐市
Temples: 23 Yakuō-ji (薬王寺)
Weather: Sunny + Cloudy
Travel Method: Train + Walking
Distance: (+14) 17.7 km
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A clatter of voices and footsteps outside my door wakes me up. After it dies down, I roll over and push myself up groggily. I pack my bag and put the futon back onto a stack in the corner. There are only the items I’m mailing left out on the floor, and the nokyocho that I’m leaving for the Mizutanis.
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June 26, 2015
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Hiwasa City 日和佐市 → Shishikui 宍喰
Temples: None.
Weather: Heavy Rain. Light Rain.
Travel Method: Train
Distance: (+14) 17.7 km
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The sound of droplets wash away the haze of sleep. There’s something soothing about waking to the sound of rain. It was too hot to sleep well last night, and I eventually dozed off as light seeped in from the upper window. It was my first time doing nojuku (‘camping’ out), and this wheelchair accessible toilet at the Hiwasa Michi-no-Eki was entirely improvised.
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June 27, 2015
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Shishikui 宍喰 → Kiragawa 吉良川
Temples: 24 Hotsumisaki-ji (最御崎寺), 25 Shinshō-ji (津照寺), 26 Kongōchō-ji (金剛頂寺)
Weather: Cloudy + Rain
Travel Method: Bus + Walking
Distance: (+40) 27 km
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Morning. Fold futon. Open curtains. Sunshine. It rained. Pack. Eat.
I move around as quietly as I can. Aurelie is still sleeping, and I enjoy extending morning quiet before the day begins.
At some point, something clatters and I hear Aurelie wake.
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July 27, 2015
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Furu-Takamatsu (古高松) → Zoda Station (造田駅) → Tokushima Otsuru Ryokan (徳島市大鶴旅館)
Temples: 87 Nagao-ji (長尾寺), 88 Ōkubo-ji (大窪寺)
Weather: Sunny → Cloudy → Rain → Cloudy
Travel Method: Train + Walking + Bus to Tokushima
Distance: 17.6 (+ 5.2) km
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5:57am. I see the pricing board in the train above the exit where the conductor takes the fare. Ehime and Kochi don’t have it. It’s on Tokushima trains. Wait, this train is going to Tokushima.
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July 28, 2015
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Tokushima Otsuru Ryokan (徳島市大鶴旅館) → Kamojima Town Kamo-no-Yu Onsen Henro Hut (鴨島町鴨の湯遍路小屋) Temples: 4 Dainichi-ji (大日寺), 5 Jizō-ji (地蔵寺), 6 Anraku-ji (安楽寺), 7 Jūraku-ji (十楽寺), 8 Kumadani-ji (熊谷寺), 9 Hōrin-ji (法輪寺), 11 Fujii-dera (藤井寺) Weather: Cloudy → Sunny Travel Method: Walking (from Itano Station) Distance: 35 km
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Today is my longest walking day. I get up around 5:30am and make two bananas my breakfast. I pack two sets of things: the stuff in my backpack for another two days and the rest to leave at the ryokan for pickup.
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July 29, 2015
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Kamojima Town Kamo-no-Yu Onsen Henro Hut (鴨島町鴨の湯遍路小屋) → Tokushima Otsuru Ryokan (徳島市大鶴旅館)
Temples: 12 Shōsan-ji (焼山寺), 13 Dainichi-ji (大日寺), 14 Jōraku-ji (常楽寺), 15 Awa Kokubun-ji (阿波国分寺), 16 Kannon-ji (観音寺), 17 Ido-ji (井戸寺)
Weather: Sunny & Cloudy
Travel Method: Walking (+ Car + Train return to Tokushima)
Distance: 25.7 (+ 25.9) km
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1305. 225. 15.7. 14:19. 25.7.
Sigh. Breathe. Smile. Sit. Close eyes.
Those are the last numbers of my pilgrimage.
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